Remembering Oleksandr Zakolodny, 35

This article originally appeared on Climbing

Longtime Ukrainian climber Oleksandr Zakolodny is remembered for his energetic spirit and his dedication to the sport. Nicknamed the "Snow Leopard" for his stealth in scaling 7000- to 8000-meter peaks, Zakolodny was at once tenacious and single-minded in the pursuit of his goals yet also gentle and empathetic to his family and friends. Zakolodny was among the first to volunteer in the war effort following Russia's invasion. He died alongside his longtime friend and fellow climber Hryhoriy Grigoriev on January 21 in a Russian attack near Soledad. Both men were 35.

<span class="article__caption">Kharkiv Team – Champions of Ukraine in 2018. Pictured is Evgenyi Poltavets, Anatolyi Ochenash, Evgenyi Timko, and Oleksandr Zakolodnyi, on the top of Grand Joras.</span> (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)
Kharkiv Team – Champions of Ukraine in 2018. Pictured is Evgenyi Poltavets, Anatolyi Ochenash, Evgenyi Timko, and Oleksandr Zakolodnyi, on the top of Grand Joras. (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)

Zakolodny held a Master of Sports in mountaineering and was a candidate for a Master of Sports in rock climbing and tourism. As a member of the Ukrainian National Mountaineering Team, the Vice President of the Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing of Ukraine, and the Chairman of the Mountaineering Committee, Zakolodny was incredibly active in the Ukraine's climbing community. He annually took part in Ukraine's Mountaineering Championships and often placed first. He organized competitions at Kharkiv's climbing gym, Vertical, where he also coached kids since 2013.

<span class="article__caption">Zakolodnyi training on the rocks in the Crimea, 2012.</span> (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)
Zakolodnyi training on the rocks in the Crimea, 2012. (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)

Alongside his climbing partner Anatoly Ochenash, he won international competitions in Crimea, and, with a team of Kharkiv climbers, he became the Champion of Ukraine three times between 2017 to 2019. He completed difficult routes in the Caucasus Mountains and Alps, such as on the south face of Ushba (4,710m), the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4,208m) via the Rolling Stones (5.10 A3, or M8, 1100m), and Divine Providence (ED+ 7b+/5.12c; 900m) on Mont Blanc.

"As a team coach, I helped organize these ascents and also accompanied the team on these trips," says fellow Ukrainian climber Gennadii Kopeika. "The team worked like clockwork. Now this watch has lost one gear...."

Zakolodny's wife, Olga Zakolodna-Zakharova, is an International Master of Sports and World Cup winner in Speed climbing. Their eldest daughters, Margarita and Ksenia Zakharov, each also hold a Master of Sports in rock climbing. The family spent most of their free time together at the Vertical climbing center.

Zakolodny also worked as a mountain instructor and guide, completing expeditions to 8,000m peaks, including Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Nanga Parbat, where he survived the 2013 Nanga Parbat massacre--a terrorist attack carried out by militants reportedly dressed in Gilgit-Baltistan Scouts uniform. Zakolodny learned how to survive in the mountains, and he was consequently a skilled fighter. Beginning in March 2022, he served in a special forces unit, often operating behind enemy lines.

<span class="article__caption">Zakolodny at the Vertical climbing wall with his wife Olga and three daughters. (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)</span>
Zakolodny at the Vertical climbing wall with his wife Olga and three daughters. (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)

"He was always saved by a keen sense of danger," says Kopeika. "It is said that he often led his squad out of difficult situations, avoiding the loss of personnel."

Zakolodny's step-daughter, Margarita, recounts seeing him for the last time, in November 2022. "We hadn't seen each other for 10 months. He had three rest days from the army, and my mum, my three sisters, and I arrived in Lviv to meet him. Those were the best three days of my life; we were together again."

On January 21, 2023, he was killed near Soledad, a few miles northeast of Bakhmut, one of the most active fighting zones in the war. Zakolodny, alongside Grigoriev, were ambushed by Russians and surrounded. Both men died of gunshot wounds.

"He wanted to train more children in our gym," says Margarita. "He wanted to go to the mountains more; he wanted to build a big house; he wanted to have a son after the war. He always said that you need to dream and your dreams will come true."

<span class="article__caption">Oleksandr Zakolodny and <span>Hryhoriy Grigoriev</span> defended Ukraine in the hot spots of the eastern front (January 2023).</span> (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)
Oleksandr Zakolodny and Hryhoriy Grigoriev defended Ukraine in the hot spots of the eastern front (January 2023). (Photo: Courtesy of Gennadii Kopeika)

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